<----THE-SUCKING-THROWING-SPRAYING-SPITTING-HEAVING-MONSTER---->

...well I did not want to miss out so I got up 20 minutes earlier 420am....had some coffee and oats....some internet posting.....then off.....the fish is down at Iwan's warung and he was closed up at dawn, the surf was smallish 3'-4'....so I split....dropped some fins in the 6'8" and paddled the 400 meters off-shore to the wave I had been watching for 6 days now....it looked really good after my morning session yesterday......well......it was heavy.....scary.....got caught before I even got one.....a long left reef.....many sections.....my first few were disasters.....hit the bottom....one exploded right next to me and lifted me up into the air......I was spooked.....when you see waves and you can not get any info about them, like kick out before the end bit or don't ride it on this tide, don't straighten out. kick out before the grower, or whatever the hazard could be.....just me looking, and hoping I can make the drop, or the section....then a few guys popped up through a boat channel south of me......I got to talking to one of them, I told him it looked good yesterday, he said I was probably better off not attempting it yesterday as alone and it over 6' I would have probably run into some difficulties.....at 4'-5' in that moment I was having difficulties.....I finally got into a rhythm.....meaning I could make it to the bottom, do a turn and get down the line......without falling.....he said it gets really good here, although it was a bit shifty today.....their 1 buddy got caught and went in, didn't even catch one.....the other guy got 3 maybe....the guy I was talking to got a lot.....i might have known him from Bali, I thought he looked familiar.....I will not be telling the 2 Swissies or the 4 Spaniards what I was doing this morning.....they do not have transpo, and are staying at the other break......it's handy having my motorbike.....not stuck.....I should have been surfing this spot everyday.....so good.....heavy barrels, and big peak at the top.....and about 4 or 5 take off spots.....the power of the waves here in west java is different then Bali.....maybe Nyang Nyang is close, but the 2nd and 3rd waves of white-water are worse then the fall or close out of  the one I am surfing.....at one point I was taking some on the head trying to paddle sideways to out of the way....I go to duck dive and my board is on the reef  in a foot and a half of water......with 5' of white-water about to hit me......SMMMmmmmmash........I still went back for more, by this time the boys were gone and back to just me......what a great left......well worth it....now I am hooked......with the full moon the tides are extreme, hope to get it at 4 or 5 went the water fills in......the guy says it's really heavy at low tide......shit it was really heavy at high tide.......the destination unknown tour coming along quite nicely....I was worried about breaking my board and my head today.....all in one piece....all good....did a afternoon session as well.....felt a little bit more comfortable.....need every bit of the 6'8" on a couple of the drops, peaks etc....got some really good ones......I'll be back at dawn......