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……click play above for the song of the day "life is......too short"

 

thought for the day----> one of the functions of thought is to be occupied all the time with something…..most of us want to have our minds continually occupied so that we are prevented from seeing ourselves as we actually are……we are afraid to be empty…….we are afraid to look at our fears…..

 

Hawaii/day 24

 

.....…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"…...PIPE MASTERS CONTEST……ON………I went and surfed sunset……6'-8'………I got caught 3 times…….one of the beatings I got was proper……I was a bit concerned…….the board was a bit narrow 18 3/4 and a bit short 7'2"……I still managed to get five waves……now, I am out of shape, both physically and surf shape so my surfing was shocking…….I looked like a spastic coming down the line……I would make the waves, although I was no vision for you…..after the surf tim made me a coffee…….and off to the circus I went……there were some moments, but I chose to hang at off the wall and watch from there….then I went for a swim……now that was heavy……my out of shape ass swimming out in the impact zone of off the wall…….I got smashed, and pounded and scared……..it was heavy……I managed to get a few pics……then it was a lunch-truck dinner, and bed by 830pm……..today's photo is of the pipe contest………below…..……..……the sign-series continues………….below(sea-level)…………..…….below………….is from the un-ridden wave series………below……………is from the point-&-shoot series…..…a siargao shore line….…below………….is the 2014-mentwai-surf-section………and finally……....its BORN X RAISED…….