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……click play above for the song of the day "somewhere in your dreams"

 

thought for the day---->

 

Togat/day 53

 

……….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"………I walked outside to have a pee….still dark……all was still……the moon lit the night……great news……the past days, as I came out of my shed the wind was howling, into my face…..now…….dead calm…..not today……I headed for the restaurant with a smile…..knowing today would be one of "those days'…….once the dawn light started to show…..I could see it was 5'+, clean and glassy…..it's on…..and, it didn't take long before we were on our way out…….I stayed on the boat, and shot photos, and did commentary for terry(our new guest)…….it was a crowd of 3, surf-guide, chef, guest……it was really good conditions and fun size…….I shot for an hour and a half before I had to go "get-some"…….for me things started out bad…..got caught straight away(and the board whacked my foot)…….the a few beatings……..I started getting into a rhythm, then something else would go wrong…….the a canoe with alavaro and 4 canary island(notorious pricks with entitlement issues)boys…….all was good though….then about my 7th wave, a late drop, quick pump, and I pulled into a sickkk one, I was really deep, then opened up, I had so much speed it shot me out, right in front of reese(our new guest)…..that made my session…….then I paddled up the top and waited, and waited, and waited, finally a bomb came, I was late, but went anyway, as I was standing, the lip threw out in front of me, as well as the sectionI made it to the bottom before I exploded……..that was the first of a 6 wave 6'+ set…..I got washed further then I had ever been washed before, past the boat……so I went to the boat and shot more photos……before long everyone was back on the boat and we went in for breakfast……I did not eat, I moved from my current shed(I've been there, for at least a month)back to the ghetto, and the surf-guide shed……then it was lunch and we were back on it…….now I ate too much…….and instead of sitting on the boat and shooting I went for a swim…..now that swim ended up being 2+ hours……..the sun was blazing……after an hour and a half, my head started aching……..I kept shooting……right when I got out there it was like someone unplugged the wave machine…..then it turned on…..really turned on…..the tide was dropping, the swell was pumping……and the waves were really hollow…….really heavy…….I am noe using my 24mm-70mm lens in the water-housing so I have to look through the little hole, aim and focus, while treading water, then once they get close to me I have to duck and get out of the way as well as try to avoid getting smashed in the white-water……..everyone was charging, surf-guide, chef, guest, mama & papa bear…….that was the crowd…….we had it to ourselves, and it was good & heavy…….so my head was cooking from the sun…..my stomach was full from lunch…….finally I went back to the boat…….mama-bear was heading back to shore, so I put the camera away and grabbed my board…….out in the line-up, I was out of it…..it felt like I had to shit and puke(sorry for the graphic detail)…..I did the latter…….and the almost puked……the waves were good so in between I would gab a sickkk wave……after 3 waves I got washed and caught, and I was near the boat so I went aboard, drank water, and put my head down in the shade…..10 minutes later I went to the front of the boat and puked, and puked again, and again, and again, and again…….then the reese came back, followed by terry, we left john out there as tom showed up and he was not alone……I got ashore and had to shower, brush out my hair, take the camera out of the housing, put all my stuff away(all this while feeling like shit)…..terry got me a coconut, I drank it, took 2 aspirin, and went to lay down…..I got about 20 steps and puked again, and again, and again…….then I went to my shed……I had to set up the mosquito net, sweep, organise a bit, and lay down……I watched episode 10 of game of thrones……then slept for a couple hours……when I got up it was 9pm and amanda brought me a pitcher of coconut water……I drank it, and laid back down…..watched some more mindless series, and tried to sleep…..the rain started…….and the wind……it stormed all night…….

......today's photo is of 'ol Tim Carroll at 7-Palms………below…..……..……the sign-series continues…………….below………….……..below……………leilani showing off a bit of strength while wearing a crown of ferns(in the mentawai-style)…….and finally it's mr todd and a bit of the hollywood magic…..