<----MENTAWI-vs-BALI---->

……click play above for the song of the day "writing"

 

thought for the day----> the world is not something separate from you and me; the world, society, is the relationship that we establish or seek to establish between each other……so you and I are the problem, and not the world, because the world is the projection of ourselves, and to understand the world we must understand ourselves…..that world is not separate from us; we are the world, and our problems are the world's problems……..

 

 

Togat/day 22 

 

…….I've been checking in on the boys in bali, comparing notes……here is my deduction……the swells in bali are bigger…….the boys were surfing 8' waves at the bommey/outside corner and getting 3 waves in an hour…..sometimes 2 waves in 2 hours…….big, heavy waves, with lots of paddling…….up here it was 6'+, clean, and we're able to get 15+ waves in 2 hours……so that's the way its been……when it's 6'-8' here, we are getting plenty waves per session…..it's not as raw here……the tide swings are not as sever here….1.4 is the highest, and .2 is the lowest……in bali it swings from 2.6 - 0.1 in 6 hours….so from what I gather, it's bigger and more work in bali vs mentawai where it's cleaner, and the wave count is 3-4 times more then in bali…….at RIFELS the other day, I heard a guy got 5 barrels in 1 wave……they said it was really good…..another guy got 150 stitches and lost an eye….another guy I know got slammed on the reef and bruised his spine(he said he got some good ones though……..2014 dry season is on……..back here on the island, we did a dawnie, wayne and myself……just us 2, trading waves, the swell had dropped to 4'…….by 19 waves I was beat……we have been paddling so much since he arrived…….so now it's almost nap time…..so the northerlies are up……no one is around for lunch……and the rest of the day for me was watch the bar for a few hours, then did a photo shoot with leilani, this time on land…..just before dark, john and terry came back from padang with the new boat(they have been gone 10 days)…….dinner/cake & ice-cream, it's 9:15 now and I am in bed……........today's photo is of a mermaid……and yes, they have mermaids here at Togat, like I've said before, it's disneyland for surfers………below…..……..……the sign-series continues…………….below………….afternoon shift of monkey wrangling….…..below……….…the 1%'ers wet-season tea-spot….…….and finally, it's bukit-bear and beaker during a sunset serenade…..