---LOVE IS IN THE AIR--- Friday May 21st 2010

.....up early and on it again.....love the dry season......love the swell over 2 meters.....love is in the air....paddled up to temples at first light.....got a few.....just me and Petey.....I sat at the top with my 4 finner......had a few late drops...followed immediately by a few good beatings.....
stand...turn...barrel....smash......after a few I went up to Secrets as I saw a few sets out the back....now it wasn't that big and a bit inconsistent....I see one out the back....paddle at an angle(out and over) to hopefully not get smashed swing around for a late drop....loose it somewhere between the top and bottom....a few underwater summer-salts.....a couple twists and turns.....and no progress towards the top, and actually I do not know which way the top is(as it was cloudy and not a lot of light)...I am a bit panicked at this point....I am scratching for the surface....almost out of breath....about to take a gulp of water when thump.....ouch....that was my head hitting the board.....I made it to the top.....thank God there was not 6 more coming......I laid there gasping......then back out for some more......I went home ate and had a nap....slept right through Ninja training....good thing as I was so beat.....then went over to Bingin for a chat with Ego and Mega.......then went and shot 1000 pictures at Ulu's.....on the boogie board.....blazing heat.....after that it was dinner a bit of a movie and sleep........