<----卐SWIM-IN卐---->

STF----> story to follow.....to tired from the swim in to write......

......did I mention that I had to swim in on my second session from the -----> http://hollywoodhoy.net/node/1414 post???? well I did......Johnny and I paddles out around 3pm....the surf had picked up from the morning.......the boys at the edge were calling the Outside Corner sets 10'.....meaning the Bommey was 10'-12'........I got straight out, Johnny got washed.....I hung a left as kiddies Corner, was a bit fat and I wanted a few more Bommey bombs like I got on the am's 4 1/2 hour paddle......as I got to the Outside Peak I swung around and got a bomb....it was big. wonky, bumpy and I did a cut-back and got bounced off by a speed bump.....onward and out to the bommey.....I can not remember f I got 2 or 3 waves, but a one point Johnny was flying towards me, he was not going to make the section of the wave he was on(somewhere in the 8'-10' range, or bigger,  I could not tell other then it was giant, and I was caught)that just broke 5 meters in front of me)...now I am not sure why I was so far inside....I did not want to paddle into his way, and as he got closer I got off my board and held it to give it a push so it would not hit Johnny.....he ended up a bit outside of me so I swam for the bottom, and did not get pulled like a fishing lure, as what usually happens when a Bommey bomb breaks in front of you.....that is when I said to myself, in my head uh o.....and uh o was right....the top 7 feet of my 8' board was gone, and the biggest set I saw of the day was coming straight for me.....I swam out instead of in to avoid this set....I took the leash off the board(I figured this 1' piece with the fins would cause me more problems then good)......I would call it 12' like the one that got Big Jim earlier in the year(he had a swim in from hell, and he was in my head as well as this process was unfolding)....I managed to avoid the set, I tossed the piece of the board into the barrel of one of the set waves and then started for shore.....I got myself into this mess so it was time to get myself out of it....and....try to stay alive in the process....to paint a quick picture of my predicament-----> I am out in the middle of the f-ing Indian Ocean, with 10'-12' sets rolling through, I am tired, and spooked from all the previous times I have been caught and smashed out here at the Bommey, I also had a heavy swim-in  from doing this same thing May 18th 2007.....all this going on in my head.....well at least I was not tired from the mornings 4 1/2 hour surf and the previous week-10 days of swell and surfing 3-5 hours a day.....now I did not even get the relief of hearing the lifeguards blowing their whistle from the cliff(which is as close as they come to rescuing anyone) as I was too far away, and I also know they haven't even left the bale next to the Edge.....having the lifeguards as friends does not inspire confidence in their life-guarding abilities either.....as i am writing this 2 days later I guess I could have went out and waved my arms until they sent the Boat from Padang, although Rip Curl probably had it hired and packed full of photographers as this was going on down the reef(this comes via Sean who is the video guy and editing wizard of Indonesian Surfing Competition that puts on the "It's On When It's On" Rip Curl Padang Padang Cup)-----> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S57qPuciTSg <-------......so back to the story at hand.....I was getting hit by waves and giant walls of whitewater...for awhile there, I could barely reach the surface,  the top 3 feet of water to the was swirling and aerated whitewater and with no board to float me, under again......it was all going on......for the next 20 minutes or so I got smashed, dragged, swirled, held under, flipped, twisted, spun, bent and all the other adjectives you can imagine that happened to me.....all this going on while I was swimming in, I was winded, tired, & trying to stay calm as I would gulp water......I ended up out in front of the low-tide beach to the left of the cave.....lucky the tide was low and I could walk.....I saw my board floating, looked left and saw the back piece with the fins sticking up.....grabbed them.....man I was winded and glad to be touching the earths surface......what a day.....it was a "Spiritual Experience" morning, and a "Nightmare" afternoon........I was relieved to know that Made Dana actually asked for the binoculars, from the edge, when he saw my riderless board bobbing around......today's photo is from the mornings bliss.......you can see from the spray how strong the wind was....the blind take-offs were heavy....and speaking of take-offs, below...........is the take-off of the same wave(as today's photo)......the Bommey has so much power, the speed you get from the drops, and bottom turns, the beatings when you fall, almost always bounce 2 or 3 times+ before penetrating the surface of the water......the barrels are big and memorable.....the Bukit Boys are tired......Jim & John sent a message it' 3' now.....I am on my second cup of tea, and might give it a miss.......
 

 

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Hard-core files... not many are willing - and its easy to see why... hope it wasn't your red board...