<----GRATITUDE---->

  ....well it's been on......we're f-ing tired, sore, and beat up from the feet up.......that didn't stop me from going it alone as Big Jim stayed in bed......it was a good call(staying in bed I mean) actually as the swell has dropped and it was morning sick, although there was a wave to be had at Secrets....I walked on it, as my 7'2" was too big, and a 2 hour massage is in order.....yesterday afternoon's session was a memorable one....I had COSMO, my trusty 7'2".....I got so many waves, and the ones that I did not make the section, I got hammered, and I mean a proper Secrets beating where you end up 1/2 into Temples before I could get back outside the white-water......I was out for about 3 hours......as the tide dropped it just kept getting better, bigger, and heavier......about an hour before dark Jake, came out with 4 guys, immediately his leash came of and he was swimming......he cam back out 30 minutes later, and his board was all dinged up......I stayed down on the slab and I was scoring......one after another.......I called johnny over, and he immediately swung around and plucked a double-up on the slab, and made it all the way down into temples......it was a fun session, the swell never got the Bommey going, although Secrets was throwing, from dawn till dusk....there were big, round slabs, that were heavy......I got slapped around today, and scored as well....today's photo is of a guy named David......he stopped me on the stairs at Ulu's last year......thanked me for shooting pictures of him the year before, gave me 100,000rp and said he loved his water-shots.......below is another shot of him, stalling at the Racetrack...........Big Jim gave a couple of water-shots I took to one of the Dads of a kid in AJ's school, and the selfish prick, can't even buy me a dinner(and he owns Kat's Kitchen) restaurant........some people roll through life with gratitude and show it(as I believe gratitude is an action), and others are just selfish cunts.......along with today's 2 photos came these words in an e-mail----->the title was "epic shots by you" and these words..... "you gave me vindication after all my 38 yrs surfing...now i have proof. tnx m8, david manila( gave you 100k bonus wen i introduced myself in aug)"<--------- so thank you David for sending me these shots(how did you do that colorized version, it's really cool and looks great in a water-shot angle)......see you at Ulu's when you come this year as 2012 has started out great and looks to be a promising and memorable year........
 

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Some people just never get it... but (fortunately) some do..