<----7卐HOURS卐OF卐SURFBOARDING---->

.....wow......I got more good waves in 1 day then most of my friends in America, get all year.......I paddled out in the dark......yes dark......30 minutes before sunrise......the moon was out and above in the western sky, so I was able to see, a bit....the paddle out was heavy, and I got smashed......my first wave was a 5'er, and it was a trip, I was flying down the line, and when it threw I could see moon-light out of the hole......I had 3 waves under my belt by the time Malinda came paddling out.....just me and Melinda for awhile.....I picked one off from the top, raced the first section, as the second section started to throw I pulled-in and got such a good barrel, I could see Melinda through the hole out of the corner of my eye and as I came out I panicked and fell......sickkk barrel with a witness.......I ended up surfing for 4+ hours.....after Secrets it was Temples and the barrel-fest continued......chook dropped in on me as I was in 1 barrel, Trent caved the section in on me and closed down another one of my barrels.....I got a few good ones in spite of the aforementioned violations as well as terrorizing the american idiot........after a nap I went back up to Ulu's with Dr. John and the Big Fella........we occupied secrets......big Greg, and a few other usual suspects were up there, getting smashed, getting caught, pulling-in, getting bombs, the slab was throwing.......all in all another great surf........on the paddle out I had to come back in and try again as I could not penetrate the walls of white water.......my 6'8" was a bit small, but I did finally get into a rhythm.....the afternoon was 5'-6', the morning was 4'-5'.......I pulled into a couple giant close outs and got pounded........all good.......today's photo is of Nyoman(Peanut's Husband), and another village elder......chillin....deep in Pecatu Village.......