<----HOLLYWOOD---->

.......today's photo comes from the SFV at the Lennie Marvin's prop house.......a couple of guys, overpayed, & overworked out in the hot  ass valley.......they are "living the dream", so to speak......they work in Hollywood, in the "picture" business, with movie stars and celebrities, they rub elbows with the elite & powerful......these same 2 knuckleheads, conspired to get the surfboard below..........painted, packaged and shipped over to me.......it brings a tear to my eye........I took this board out on a maiden voyage, this morning......it's f-ing magic.....I got 10+ waves from the Outside Corner,  to the Bommey, .......I even got 3 waves in one set....maybe an Ulu's record.....as I kicked out of my bommey wave, I started scratching for my life to get over the next wave(I was at the outside peak at this point) when I swung around and went, then I did the same thing again, and ended up at the outside corner......."Cosmo the Great" the name of my new board went great...Dr John loaned me 4 fins, .I made every wave, didn't get caught, and had one from the Bommey to the inside corner, and if I did not do a cut back I could have went all the way through....it was 5'-6' when we paddled out(and on the paddle out I got smashed 15+ on the head)...my buddy Morgan was down at Padang Padang, and said 4 people ended up getting washed/paddling down there from Ulu's as they missed the cave....Johnny got a couple good ones, that I saw.......Big Jim got caught by a 10'er, at the Bommey, leash broke, and he got washed down to Thomas Home Stay(1/2 way to Padang), and his board or 4 pieces of it are currently lost.....I am sick, not at the top of my game today, so I will take the 9'6" to give me an advantage for the afternoon low-tide...........