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--Balangan--Monday March 22nd 2010

Suit Up And Show Up.......Sunday March 21st

SaTuRdAy 20th of March

...up at 3am wtf???jet lag or is this just the way it is.....now...I hear the swell dropping, so I am going to take the 6'5" 4 fin epoxy that was snapped at Supersuck last may...it's fixed....heavy now......but I left my 6'10" in the warung, thinking it would be bigger today, and then the 7'4" om swasty would be coming w/me. so it's a gamble, and I am throwing the dice with the 4 finner.....tuff decisions....so it was another nice surf...3'-4' clean, offshore, a bit inconsistent....it's funny how I can be so daft....I want it to be big and scary everyday...the 4 finner went alright.....tomorrow should be the biggest it's been, so far for me on this trip....looking forward to that...managed to get in a few barrels today....no one recognizes me without the beard and long hair.....funny really....people asking about me while I am right there......watched a Mel Gibson movie  edge of darkness, had a 20 minute nap....off to the the home group, Swell meeting, 5pm....then dinner, and another day gone....just did a bit of yoga, can't even touch my toes, when I don't do yoga, or surf, I fall out of shape pretty quick.....that will mean on double over-head Ulu's should smash me tomorrow.....all other sports, they show up  and start doing them....surfing is a bit more complicated....just to get to where you need to be to catch a wave....mother nature, makes you jump through hoops...or to put it more bluntly....tries to drown you....puts you through the washing machine(rinse and spin cycle).....to get to a place that 25 other guys are sitting waiting to catch a wave that I want to catch.....oh well....it's what we do.....

Surfers Warung Friday 19th March

--ChAnGe--ThUrSdAy 18th MaRcH 2010--

...I was sore and tired this morning...and sore...but got up at 4:45am anyway....coffee...bowl of oats....load the bike...back to the scene of the crime....Uluwatu...I love it there...it's my favorite place on the planet....and it's 15 minutes up the road....the surf dropped, so it was not as fun as the day before...although I was first in the water...the cliffs....the temple on the hill....all make for a nice working environment...my new job is to surf everyday.....only missed one day of work so far(national holiday)because I could not leave the house....I am a perfect employee....and god is my employer....so keeping that in mind.....I am winning....once I start complaining about things like that f-ing prick, who first made me go around him and miss a barrel...while he was paddling back out....then dropped in on me...and later said the famous "Temples" excuse...you wouldn't have made that....it's hard to remember I am at work and god is my employer...because I want to pull his right eyeball out of the socket...right there in the water...so he has a real excuse for not seeing me....I have a friend who pulled a guy's eye out....I haven't got to do that yet.....so I am a bit jealous......anyway....god is my employer and probably doesn't want me mouthing off or smacking one of his kids, even if they have it coming.......then it was a banana pancake, made with love from Polly, one for big Jim too , back home to rest....movie...."The Box"....weird and interesting....long nap....dinner and internet.....good day....this picture was taken on Wednesday....mid march...trade winds blowing....it's a dry-season  day during the wet season.....unbelievable....early dry-season....nice to be living on the Bukit....there are so many things changing in Bali...so much construction....even at Uluwatu....I've never been a fan of change...but they can build another warung....or ding repair shop...even a bar....the one thing they can't change is Racetrack(pictured here)....the Bommie...Main Peak....Outside Peak....Temples....Secrets....Outside Corner...these stay basically the same....thank god....given a chance though...the indo's will fuck up anything...

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