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Wednesday 24th March 2010

23rd March 2010 Bali Life

--Balangan--Monday March 22nd 2010

Suit Up And Show Up.......Sunday March 21st

SaTuRdAy 20th of March

...up at 3am wtf???jet lag or is this just the way it is.....now...I hear the swell dropping, so I am going to take the 6'5" 4 fin epoxy that was snapped at Supersuck last may...it's fixed....heavy now......but I left my 6'10" in the warung, thinking it would be bigger today, and then the 7'4" om swasty would be coming w/me. so it's a gamble, and I am throwing the dice with the 4 finner.....tuff decisions....so it was another nice surf...3'-4' clean, offshore, a bit inconsistent....it's funny how I can be so daft....I want it to be big and scary everyday...the 4 finner went alright.....tomorrow should be the biggest it's been, so far for me on this trip....looking forward to that...managed to get in a few barrels today....no one recognizes me without the beard and long hair.....funny really....people asking about me while I am right there......watched a Mel Gibson movie  edge of darkness, had a 20 minute nap....off to the the home group, Swell meeting, 5pm....then dinner, and another day gone....just did a bit of yoga, can't even touch my toes, when I don't do yoga, or surf, I fall out of shape pretty quick.....that will mean on double over-head Ulu's should smash me tomorrow.....all other sports, they show up  and start doing them....surfing is a bit more complicated....just to get to where you need to be to catch a wave....mother nature, makes you jump through hoops...or to put it more bluntly....tries to drown you....puts you through the washing machine(rinse and spin cycle).....to get to a place that 25 other guys are sitting waiting to catch a wave that I want to catch.....oh well....it's what we do.....

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