<----SURPRISE----> -August 13th-

strict warning: Only variables should be passed by reference in /var/www/drupal6/sites/all/modules/captcha/captcha.inc on line 61.

 

 


.....a swell finally came early or unexpected.....I planned to sleep in, rest, go for an afternoon paddle and to the swell cafe at 5pm for NA......got calls and messages that ulu's is 6', outside corner is breaking.......what a pleasent surprise.....so it's on again, now, and with a 4 meter swell on the way, that actually got up-graded to 4.4 meter swell......maybe the biggest of the year to date......the arms are back to paddling shape, lungs are working properly......bring on the bombs....so today, I surfed Secrets, Bommey, Inside Bommey Outside Peak, Outside Corner, and Inside Bommey again.....all before the 5pm meeting.....rode the 7'4" "Om Swazzie" and got a bunch.....no crowd issues, only at Kiddies Corner, where the kids go to play......today's picture is from Thaliand, floor 3 on Soi 10....