<----BALANGAN----> -August 9th-

 

 


.....I've been living in Balangan for a couple years, and only surfed for the first time today......met John and Big Jim down there this afternoon.....brought my 7'4" to give me an edge on anyone, actually everyone, so I could get in early, and take off late if need be.....got a couple good long ones, but I will not be back for another 2 years or so I would guess.....Ulu's is much better wave, with more size and power the Balangan.....not according to MAGICSEAWEED, but according to us........I surfed Balangan on my first trip to bali, only Balangan......it's a good introductory wave.......Jim had a hassle with a frenchman, Glenn and John and Jim got a few good ones as well.....so many idiots.....my surf at Ulu's at dawn was much better.....2 surfs a day.....I am fit....just need to stay healthy, and that always seems to be a challenge..........today's picture shows a bit of the power of "Secrets" I would call it a 4'+ day.....look at the white-water.......4' above Big jims head....I love this shot as it captures a moment in time, and it shows the fury, the power, and the Big Fella in synchronicity......