<----THE INEVITABLE HAPPENED---->

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.....got up early and headed for Euro's(now I named it that because 2 guy's from Switzerland and 4 guys from Spain have been staying and surfing there) I didn't get far....I turned around, grabbed the 6'8" and paddled out to monsters.....now I thought the swell had dropped, but it was less consistent, which meant I didn't get caught as much....just me out and beautiful blue Indo water, sheet glass and solid 4' with bigger bombs coming through.....I saw so many beautiful barrels, got some good ones too....I have been using the go-pro in the mornings, so once I learn my editing program I'll have some good vid's.....it was hard to come in as it was perfect, and fun.....so many great waves....after almost 4 hours I got caught coming out of a barrel, one more time, couldn't deal with the next few heading at me and went in.....the afternoon session started off good, I went and got my fish, left the 6'8" in the room and headed out for some low-tide waves, looked about 4' on the sets.....I thought the fish was a good idea......actually I was getting some good ones....a couple in and outs, some long ones.......as I was on mach 10 flying down the line seeing the reef  flying by jut feet below, i was happy I was making the sections and able to kick out.....I was having a great day, and  the inevitable happened feeling confident, I took off a bit late on a 5' set f-ed up the drop....and....I....got pummeled, tossed, torn, yanked, pulled, twisted, sucked over, held under, lost my leash right off my ankle, the fish was in two pieces,  a smashed nose......I had a blown out knee....felt it pop in the whitewater.......when I finally surfaced I was in less then 2' of water with 6' of white water coming straight for me......it was one of the most violent wipe-outs I've had....and i have had plenty.......not sure how bad the knee is, only time will tell.....oh well, it was fun while it lasted.......today's picture is of another West Java sunset.....one of the euros having a crack on his backhand......there were 5 days of solid surf in a row........