<----TO-LIVE---->

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---Krishnasurfi's thought for the day----> most of us are frightened of dying because we don't know what it meant to live…..we don't know how to live, therefore we don't know how to die……

 

Bali/day 45

Yoga/day 24

waves/ 4'-5' 20+ waves 

……5800

…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"……another great day of surfboarding….an all-star showing……hiro and I got out 3rd and 4th after robbie wright and the ashram boogie boarder who steered far from me…..ol ribbie was up to his old tricks of get as many waves as possible, thinking he was the only guy in the water, that's what got him punched at the racetrack a couple years back, and yelled at almost every surf he has I would imagine…..he realised yesterday that that I was the guy who he had the punch up with a couple years ago in the warungs……he didn't recognise me before and to be truthful I didn't recognise him either, until pointed out by the big fella, who has been surfing with him quite a few times at the office the past couple years……anyhow they stayed away and paddled in after about an hour…….big jim, johnny d, jake, tim, gerry and alex, mossop, greg from the philippines, tim morris(who the boogie and knee boarder both paddled up to him informing him the guy in the white hat is a neo-nazi, which her responded I know, better to stay away from him) a few other bogies were about…….it was not as big or powerful or as fun as yesterday, but good, and we had some waves and laughs……..a guy called asher pacey has been out the last couple days on a 5'3" DHD really doing well on his backhand……jake said, he and flynn saw my barrel yesterday from the villas…….good times on the bukit…..

 

......today's photo is of late august mentawai-fun………below……………..…the sign-series continues……….below(sea-level)…………………..below………….…….is from the un-ridden wave series…………below…………………is from the point-&-shoot series………below…………..……is the the 2017-assorted-surf-section….……...below…………..……..is the drone "screen-grab" pic……..…below……….……….…is from the "shoot-from-the-hip" collection.….…and finally , it's the penal code #459 section…….