----OUCH---- Sunday-->August 15th 2010

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....day of rest??? maybe for the balinese and indo's.....family day.....for me it's something different up a little past 4am and a bit of writing the off to Ulu's for dawnies....yesterday it was good early am....6' and glassy at the outside corner....3 of us for the first hour....really fun...late drops...long rides....me and larry in-sync....then to the outside peak for a couple then in....another 3 hour session.....day before FRIDAY THE  13TH was on too....I took Thursday off to rest....friday at 6am got the first report 2' at ulus.....by 8am the report was 5'-6' and building.....my plan was to paddle at the afternoon low tide.....I stuck to the plan.....reports kept coming in 6'....6'+.....hard to stay in bed and rest....actually the first season of 24 does help.....go Jack Bauer....by the time Thursday came around I needed a rest as the surf has been 4' or bigger for 10 days or more and I've been 3-6 hours in the water depending on tides and conditions....once the swell dropped there was another swell on the way forecasted for Friday the 13th to build and peak on sunday.....that left Thursday for day of rest....Friday the 13th was an epic session at the outside corner although I did manage to get caught a few times.....f-up a few good waves....I did get a good barrel that all the boys on the cliff saw.....also as it came on dark the wind stopped....so todays forecast of 3 meters was wrong, the corner was barely breaking so me and Larry walked up to secrets for a go, it was dark as I was walking, and it was a hard paddle out, lots of current.....first 4 waves were great....big peaks....solid 5'with bigger sets....then I started getting caught inside and hammered....got the rail in the thigh....OUCH.....with a couple long hold-downs....board ripped out of my hands....beatings.....then got some more good ones although it hurt to stand.....then off to the bommey.....got one right away....thought about going in(should have).....then back out....got caught there by an 8' set and hammered.....then a 20 minute wait.....so I paddled to the outside peak....got 1 there(should have went in) paddled back out....got caught there....back out....lots of current...no sets.....got caught again and went in....4 hour surf.....home for brekie....to bed to rest me and my leg.....on the couch now finishing this up......