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---Krishnasurfi's thought for the day----> I maintain that Truth is a pathless land, and you cannot approach it by any path whatsoever, by any religion, or by any sect…..

when you once see something as false which you have accepted as true, as natural, as human, then you can never go back to it…….

 

……Bali/day 50

 

…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"……well I was off the 5'10" from yeaterday, and back on the 8'4" today……..we did an early surf check……sat around and watched…..I had my 8'4" so I was way over-gunned……the new swell had not arrived yet……it looked 3'-4'…..after about 2 hours, we left……there was a guy there with us during our surf checks that said had a couple of shots of me in the suit, from the last swell………he told jim a story about watching me paddle out where no one else was, in my suit, and seeing me throw my board in the white water two times and then I got out(he was thinking I wonder how this guy, is going to do in these big waves)……the first thing I did was swung around late on one, at the corner, and into it, as I got around the bottom, Jake dropped in, said hi, and was in in on that one to the airport….……well I continued to kill it this day……I was on-fire……..todays photo is of my second wave that day at the outside peak……back to today……I stayed at home until about 2pm and headed up to ulu's……jim sent me a message and said he was on the way……the 1%'s were suiting up and showing up today……johnny and jim tried my way to paddle out……I snuck out……johnny did all right……jim saved someones board and got out as well…….so the swell had hit, it was double the size of the morning……it took me awhile to get my first one…….it was 8' at the bommey……I got 1 at the inside bommey…….I watched jim get a couple at secrets, so I paddled over to join him, but he went in……..jake was out there……the swell was picking up, and the ones jim was getting, were too hard to line up as there were 3rd reef clean-up sets that started to roll in and mow us over…..I finally lined one up……it was scary on the inside so I kicked out, so I could get back out…….I headed back to the bommey……a few sets started at the bommey……I almost got caught by a 12' set……I saw it, and started sctatching for the horizon……I barely was adbl to duck-dive into the first one about 3/4's up the face, as I punched through, the wave had my board, and was sucking me back into it, I let the board go backwards, between my legs, and hoped for the best…….me and the board survived……jake went the next one late, and didn't get around……..johnny dee went……..and a white man with dreadlocks did the same…….I was happy to just get over and out the back…….now it's my turn……I want one, do not want to get caught, and do not want to be to deep…….careful what you wish for as the say…….I was up……set coming, I forget who went the first one, the second was mine, so, head down, paddle hard, get up as I am going over the ledge, can't tell if I am too deep, angling down the line, as it is standing up, it's going to barrel, I pull up and into it, trying to get a high line, so if I do make it, I can get out of this one……things came together for me, as I came out the next section threw, back in…..and….out, and down the line, as I kicked out the back, I had to scratch to get over the next two waves…..then the paddle back to the point…….on my way back out the guys on the outside peak and inside bommey we all saying great wave, good barrel……I am glad a couple of the boys saw it as well……..they were all poking fun at my smurf suit, from afar…….it was getting dark……..I should have went in on that last one, but I had to go for 1 more…….during this 20 minute period, the dreadlock guy had to swim in, jake did the same and broke his board, a few others had the same fates…….I did well……I got 5 waves, was only too deep on 1 at the bommey, and my one in was a screamer also…….another fun day in this great run of surf……tomorrow is meant to be bigger then today………

 

......today's photo is of me at the outside corner from last week………below……………..…the sign-series continues……….below(sea-level)…………………..below………….…….is from the un-ridden wave series…………below…………………is from the point-&-shoot series………below…………..……is the 2016-mentwai-surf-section….……...below…………..……..is the drone "screen-grab" pic……..…below……….……….…is from the "shoot-from-the-hip" collection.….…and finally , it's the penal code #459 section, meanwhile out at GLAND…….