<----SEPTEMBER-FIRST---->

---Krishnasurfi's thought for the day----> real learning comes about when the competitive spirit has ceased…….

 

Togat/day 97

 

…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"……we went out at dawn….and it was on……it was 5' and good…..some current, some barrels, some beatings, some big drops…….it was good…..I did get in a slump after 10 waves, I didn't get one for 40 minutes……then it was on again…….I stayed out(once tyler went in), surfing with the f-ing hipsters and ainsley…..I got an 8' set wave(on my 5'10" epoxy), stuck an air-drop on a 6' set……redemption and fun…..and did the long paddle in, this time no reef walking, over the fire coral….…my arms and body are so sore I could not do yoga, and had to leave 1/2 way through the class……I did rally for the evening session……another 13 waves, although I wish I took the twin-fin out…….

 

………the year of 2015 is 2/3's over…….its hard to believe……life just flies by……the august recap: 

WAVES IN AUGUST - YEAR TO DATE - TOTAL FOR 30 MONTHS  

       520 waves                  2139 waves                   7875 waves

and september looks good for swell, which is good for the guests, good for us, and just plain good all around……

 

---Surf-Report: 5' solid 32waves

 

......today's photo is of a south wind out front……still rideable and fun, but wonky………below……..…..…the sign-series continues……….below(sea-level)………………..below……..……….is from the un-ridden wave series……below……….…….……is from the point-&-shoot series……below…………………is the 2015-mentwai-surf-section….……...below……………..is the drone "screen-grab" pic……below…………….…is from the "shoot-from-the-hip" collection.….…and finally , it's the penal code #459 section…….

Tall Paul's picture

Oops... I thought you made

Oops... I thought you made your goal.  Gettin' there, though.  That's an impressive wave count.