<----SOME-SWELL---->

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---Krishnasurfi's thought for the day----> when you once see something as false which you have accepted as true, as natural, as human, then you can never go back to it………

 

Togat/day 96

 

......…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"……..we had a look to see if the 22 second period kicked in, and it had not, so we went out front on the high tide……it was frustrating for me……I was hoping the swell would hit and I waited out the back for it……there was a lot of current due to the full moon tides…….then I went with the girls to telescopes again…….it got hot on the roof, shooting pictures, plus we had a bad parking spot, so I went and did some body-surfing at telescopes…..that was fun, a couple barrels, a really long one…….then I had them drop me off out front, while they went in for lunch……it was firing…..and fun……johnny, myself and a few others(lunch time for the boats) then a boat of 15 surfers joined us, and the guests were frothing hipsters…….what a drag that is……they all got in at the same time…..retro boards, tattoos, long hair, beards……no etiquette…..the proceeded to make me crazy……..they did not know where to sit, so they followed me around…….finally I paddled them so far up the reef and went in(that left them so far out of position)…..the tide was so low, I had to walk across the reef, barefoot, it was a rough 10 meters until it was deep again……fire coral had my legs and feet burning…….we went out for an evening paddle as well, all the hipsters were out again……they say they are leaving, oh yeah, that old story…….

 

---Surf-Report: 5'-6' and fun out front, and 3'-4' at teles, a bit windy, but finally some swell

 

…….today's photo is from behind at 7 palms…..I really like this shot for some reason………below…..……..……the sign-series continues…………….below(sea-level)……..………..below……..…….is from the un-ridden wave series….….…below…………..…is from the point-&-shoot series………below……..………….is the 2015-mentwai-surf-section….……...below……….……..is the drone "screen-grab" pic……….…below…………...….…is from the "shoot-from-the-hip" collection.….……and finally, it's the penal code #459 section…….