<----GOOD-FUN---->

thought for the day----> and the wheeling and the dealing….all takes up too much time….check your better self baby….you'd better satisfy, satisfy your mind...

 

 

togat/day 39

 

.....…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"…….what a day…I was up before 5am to get the coffee going………we started out with a 6am run out front…..it was 5'-6', chopy, cross-onshore, messy, and morning sick……I jumped in the guests to get a couple….after 7 waves I went to the boat and shot photos, one of which is the photo of the day……once I got to the boat, the wind switched to offshore and it started to clean up, and get good…….after about n hour, tony went in to pick up ainsley, and juels……..so i jumped in for a paddle…….it was so fun, although the swell was so west the "curry-bowl" was closing out, so once you pulled in, there was no getting out, just hang in or straighten out……I was doing both, got a few really deep close-outs, and a few good beatings, by the time I paddled in, I was on wave 16 for the morning……surf-guide did in his neck pulling into one, so he is f-ed….ainsley paddled straight into a deep one, and made it through, it was 6' and throwing…….as we were leaving a big set(biggest of the day, came through, cleaned everyone up, broke ainsley's leash, so we went out and picked her up……she was done, juels stayed out……we went in……the boys had just finished yoga, I told them it was good, they saw the big set, and were getting ready, and heading out……I was in…….so greg, johnny, mark and myself got on the little boat and went out………it was just us for a bit, the some guys off a charter got dropped off, 5 of them and a water photog, but they went deep and out to the hollywood-bowl……..so we had the inside and they were out the back……….it was a great session, then the wind started and it want from glassy and good, to side shore, then chopy, so we went in…….as I walked up the guests were heading to telescopes, I had a smoothie, grabbed some fruit, as well as my gear, and off we went(no rest for the wicked)………tele's was blown as well with 3 boats there……2 of them left shortly after we got there, no one was out so our crew headed out for a fun, tele's windy session……after about 2 hours, andres(one of our indo crew, cut his toe on the reef and was bleeding a lot, so we called it headed back for a 3pm lunch, followed by a dinner, and a b-day cake for jason(one of our new guests)………by the time I got into bed I was beat…did start a new episode of gotham as greg had 3 new ones, but I only got in about 10 minutes before I passed out……..today's photo is of mawa, one of our new guests from south africa………below…..……..……the sign-series continues…………….below(sea-level)…………..below………….is from the un-ridden wave series………below……….…is from Brian, my neighbor's point-&-shoot series 1/5………below…….………is the 2015-mentwai-surf-section.……below…….…..…is from the "shoot-from-the-hip" collection.…………and finally, some ogoh ogoh's from the not so recent Nyepi celebration………