<----RINSE-&-SPIN---->

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thought for the day----> go ahead, turn the other cheek….but have you ever met anybody who's ever been the meek….and it's so cruel to expect the saviour to save the day….and there's no religion, here today…..

 

 

togat/day 31

 

....…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"……we did another dawnie……brought the boat around by moon-light……had a quick coffee, Ainsley was up and waiting……so she, surf-guide, and myself(we drove by eric's boat and woke him up)surfed alone, clean, glassy, 4+ waves…….it was great, no boats, no guests, no people………we all had fun and surfed for 3 hours….early on, I was deep and out the back, waiting for the bombs……one came, I was slow to my feet(I am only about at 75%, with the sternum fracture)needed to pull straight into the barrel, but was too slow, so I had to straighten out(it was the first wave of a 6 wave set) I got smashed, and during the rinse and spin cycle, my spidey senses were tingling, I knew the bottom was close I put my hand out, got a quick slash before my shoulder impacted, then my head……I paddled over to surf-guige who assessed the situation…..just  graze, not too deep on the shoulder……the head was fine………so back out for some more……I ended up getting 20 waves on the quad set-up on my carroll 6'0"……by 20 waves I was done…….came in and ate, had a coffee, and went for a nap…….2 hours later it was lunch time and back out surfing for another 2 1/2 hours and 17 waves on the 6'0" robert's black punt……ainsley paddled in as it was choppy……..the swell hit while we were out and some 6'ers were rolling in, just john, surf-guide and me…….what a day of surfboarding and life in general……now I am in bed before 9pm, and will sleep soon, as we are on it again tomorrow…..today's photo is of iwalani, being chased by pac-man………below…..……..……the sign-series continues…………….below(sea-level)…………..below………….is from the un-ridden wave series………below……..………is from Brian, my neighbor's point-&-shoot series………below…….……is the 2015-mentwai-surf-section……below……...…is from the "shoot-from-the-hip" collection….………and finally, some ogoh ogoh's from the not so recent Nyepi celebration………