<----SLAB-DODGING---->

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……click play above for the song of the day "tommy gun"

 

thought for the day----> Some of them were dreamers….and some of them were fools….who were making plans and thinking of the future….with the energy of the innocent….they were gathering the tools….they would need to make their journey back to nature….while the sand slipped through the opening….and their hands reached for the golden ring….with their hearts they turned to each other's heart for refuge….in the troubled years that came before the deluge….

 

 

Bali/day 18

 

......…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"………..it was a fun morning of surf…..the house mates went with big jim up the east coast, on a slab-dodging mission, and hiro and I scored……the first 45 minutes were slow…….the I started getting a few……then the tide bottomed out and with the push came some really good waves…..solid 5' with 6'+ sets…….spitting tubes…….I did manage to get caught a few times….my first 2 waves led to beatings……proper, deep-water climb my leash beatings……long hold downs…….spooky……the power was like 6'-8' waves…….I managed also to get some beauties…….late drops…….I did well….I was on my 7'6" so I had an advantage to hiro(on a 7'0") and one other guy on a 6'-something………....today's photo is of mr martin getting his monies worth………...below…..……..……the sign-series continues…………….below(sea-level)………..……..below………….is from the un-ridden wave series………below……...…is from the point-&-shoot series, the UK boys top-side on the JIWA……………below………….is the 2014-mentwai-surf-section………and finally……