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……click play above for the song of the day "godwhacker"

 

thought for the day----> what sex gives you momentarily is the total abandonment of yourself, then you are back again with your turmoil, so you want a repetition over and over again of that state in which there is no worry, no problem, no self…….

 

Hawaii/day 26

………1968

.....…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"……..PIPE MASTERS CONTEST……OFF……..too much wind, has the north shore blown out……I was up and at sunset by 630……it was stormy all night, bug wind, rain……..I opted out for a surf although I could have got a couple at sunset…….I went and checked pipe…..big and messy……so back to the house…….then went for a coffee…….looking for my hat, I put out my back……thats right…..I am down……my friend hudson called so I went with him for a cuppa…….he took me to his chiropractor……the session was ok….lots of cracking……..now it's evening and I am wrecked…….today's photo is of off the wall………below…..……..……the sign-series continues……….below(sea-level)…………..…….below………….is from the un-ridden wave series………below……..…is from the point-&-shoot series………below……………….is the 2014-mentwai-surf-section………and finally, from the newly re-opened skate-park, across from rockpiles…….this guy was using "FREE-LINE" skates……these 5 hawaiians were blowing my mind……they were barefoot, standing on 6 inch by 6 inch pieces of wood with 2 wheels attached to it(on each foot)…..it was so interesting to watch……they were killing it in the bowl………