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……click play above for the song of the day "freaky styley"

 

thought for the day----> if you try to study yourself according to another you will always be a secondhand human being…..

 

Togat/day 98

 

………in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"…….it's full-on rain, no internet signal……but I have van morrison on, it's just after 5am…….the season is winding down for me in the mentawai's………another week to go and 2 more swells are heading our way…….then a visa run is in order…….and back to bali……..big jim has been out of the surf, with a hurt paw, hiro out with a broken wing……surfing is hard on the body, especially when you surf like we do……so we went to the beachie……surf was not so good….tide was too low for the right, the left was fat but ok……so everyone went out to sand-bar peak……I swm for a bit, it was not that good…….I kept getting smashed……it was powerful……so I went in, young alex went in before me……..johnny caught 1, pulled into a little barrel…..paddled back out and did the same(we didn't think anything of it……then we saw his board(I thought he broke his leash, and said "johnny will be fine, he just broke his leash")as I was scanning for him…..then tony (the boat driver, just paddled out)…waved his arm while paddling to johns board, alex and I started running, she said for me to grab my board, I just jumped into the current and swam, Alex was a little ahead of me paddling……well the next minutes, hours, have been surreal…….john was knocked unconciess….he was under-water for a few minutes….he was not breathing.……..everyone played a part in helping……we saved him………it was scary……I could go into the details that freak me out, now,  when I go over them in my head……but I will not…now he is in the hospital in padang…….tomorrow he will go to singapore…..he has a broken collar bone, broken wrist, and water in the lungs……but he is ok……talking……ainsley is with him as well as amanda, tom, and our togat padang crew…….we are all going through it……..I was in the water praying…….now we are holding the fort here at togat…….we have a full house at the moment…..the guests all helped as well…, today…..….it takes a village……our prayers and good vibes go out to johnny…….it's really weird what we go through….it's like a form of ptsd……..that is why I wrote about it a little as I think it will help….I am in bed exhausted……..and wide awake……today's photo is a bird, no….it's a plane……no it's mr bruce………below…..……..……the sign-series continues………….below(sea-level)……………..below………….is from the un-ridden wave series………….and finally, it's another had day at the office……....

 
bukitbear's picture

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That's some heavy news Chris... sounds like Johhny's in good hands... 

mr39911's picture

Wow.....scary

That sounds like a very scary episode. You're right though, it takes a village. So happy to read that you all got to him in time and were able to save a life.