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……click play above for the song of the day "rank strangers to me"

 

thought for the day----> the death of a tree is beautiful in its ending, unlike man's….adead tree in the desert, stripped of its bark, polished by the sun and the wind, all its naked branches open to the heavens, is a wondrous sight…..a great redwood, many, many hundreds of years old, is cut down in a few minutes to make fences, seats, and build houses or enrich the soil in the garden….the marvellous giant is gone….man is pushing deeper and deeper into the forests, destroying them for pasture and houses…..the wilds are disappearing….there is a valley, whose surrounding hills are perhaps the oldest on earth, where cheetahs, bears and the deer one once saw have entirely disappeared, for man is everywhere…..the beauty of the earth is slowly being destroyed and polluted…..cars and tall buildings are appearing in the most unexpected places…..when you lose your relationship with nature and the vast heavens, you lose your relationship with man…..

 

Togat/day 91

 

………in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"…….north west winds/2' swell…….not a good combo……I have spent 91 days at the togat nusa retreat in this year of 2014……it has been really nice….I have met cool and interesting people, surfed great waves……and really come to love the togat experience…….I hope my friends will love and experience it at some point…….the surf industry is interesting……they are live streaming events, the surf clothing companies are billion dollar a year enterprises…….although I do work on the fringes of the surf industry, it's for a completely different idea……it's not money driven…….it's lifestyle driven…..these 91 days at togat…allows a lifestyle that has me content……content is difficult when I strive to capture a feeling……that feeling is captured in all areas of the present……from when I open my eyes in the morning to when I close them at night…..an unexpected afternoon cuddle with my monkey friend……a tube ride out front……a sunset……a sunrise……the sound of the waves……mostly, the feeling of being part of nature, riding waves…..the challenge and enjoyment of 5'+ perfect surf really makes it all worth while…..and sharing that with friends is epic…..I try to express it through art/writing/photo's/sound, although in the moment experience is beyond all that…….it is life……….….today's photo is of me out in front of togat, on another perfect day, another perfect wave…..2 hands in the face, in the moment, all senses working……content/happy/aware/alive………below…..……..……the sign-series continues…………….below(sea-level)…………..below……….…is from the un-ridden wave series……….and finally it's the scarecrow master, deep in another one, on his way out……