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……click play above for the song of the day, a studio version of "catfish john"

 

thought for the day----> you should be attentive to every movement of the mind wherever it wonders……

 

Togat/day 66

 

…….in today's "tales from the hollywood bowl"……..we did an early morning run to telescopes…6 1/2 minutes away……..just us for an hour……we were rewarded.……then the long-boats started showing up……some hawaiian guy rents out his house near aloita, so we have been seeing his friends around…..this one guy paddled up inside twice at suicides the other day and went on the first wave that came both times, he also burned one of our guests, snowballed another and is just an all around pest….so today he paddles for a wave I was on…..it was a close out, although I ended up next to him and informed him, if he sees me on a wave do not paddle for it, and also I reminded him that he paddled up inside me twice at suicides, and if he did it again we were going to have problems……I told him he had no aloha, if he was claiming hawaiian….before I paddled away I gave him the oportunity to sort out an issue if he had one…..he declined and I caught the next wave in which gave me 2 for the session……we left and headed for scarecrows to surf alone…..I jumped in, and had a paddle……ended up with 9 waves, a few barrels, and so good to be back out front……after lunch we went back out front……we had 2 new guests arrive today as well……so I shot photos, haley shot photos….the conditions had gone sheet/mentawai glass…..I shot photos for almost 2 hours, I was hot, and ready for a paddle, plusthe waves were looking good…..my first wave I swung around on a set, I was only 1/2 way to the hollywood-bowl…..I dropped in, hugged the face, and it threw out in front of me….I got an in-&-out barrel(the next section threw, but I straightened out(haley got a few shots of me, in and out of the barrel)……my last wave, after 14 waves, I rode it all the way through, kicked out at the end, as john was leaving on the jet-ski, he picked me-up, and we went and got some more waves at gumby's…..another 10 waves for me, john must hae got as many too, but he creased his board, so we went in….…long day, no nap…….I am tired, sore, and happy……..really happy the east-winds are back………..today's photo is of the magic-man at tele's, comin out of the closet………below…..…1988…..……the sign-series continues…………….below……..…….Nyepi 1936/2014……..below……….this is my life…..hangin with the monkey, computer close-by, as well as my "trader-joe's" bag(thanks to anna and josh)……another day in the life…….and finally, this is one way to look after your reef-cuts…..

 
mr39911's picture

East-Winds

Great story and great pics my brother.