<----WAVES---->

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……click play above for the song of the day ""

 

thought for the day----> all ideologies are idiotic, whether religious or political, for it is conceptual thinking, the conceptual word, which has so unfortunately divided man……..

 

Togat/day 14

 

…………I awoke to a big storm…..lots of grumbling of the thunder…..lightening flashes, and rain……when I opened my eyes again it was light out……I headed straight for the restaurant……had a coffee, there were 3 boats out front……some sets as well….so I went for a paddle……it was solid 5'……the crowd was not bad…….I went straight up to the hollywood bowl and plucked a bomb…….what a great surf…….barrels, big drops, lots of pocket time……the northerly winds came up and put a chop on the face, so my 6'1" was flying, bouncing……it was hard to slow down……it was fun….I got 18 waves, and came in to cover a shift of monkey wrangling……..time to put fins in the bigger boards so I am ready……it's suppose to pick up for the next few days……I love it when there is a swell running……juels, leilani, and myself went for a 4:30 paddle…..swell had dropped a bit….still 5'…….I got a few good ones….I rode my 6'8" to help with the chop……it got better as the day went on as the north wind let up…….toni dropped us out the back so we only had to paddle in……best surfing yet for me this year at togat…..one of many I would imagine…………….today's photo is of a couple philippino friends………below…..………..……the sign-series continues…………….below………….a different monkey…….we both only have 1 eye showing……..below……………when another day come to an end it looks just like this……..and finally, mr torren with a mentawai-drive-by-shooting…..