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……click play above for the song of the day "lonesome moan"

 

thought for the day----> do not repeat after me words that you do not understand…..do not merely put on a mask of my ideas, for it will be an illusion and you will thereby deceive yourself……

 

Sumatra/day 11

 

…..what a wave…..it still really spooks me…..I paddled out in the dark today, rosary(an irish girl staying at the huseins) was just ahead of me……the brizilian guy and his son, just behind me…….now the brazilian bought a boat for 2,500 with a 15hp yamaha engine……him and his son and 2 indos came down from tuapejat yesterday, and before that they were in playgrounds……you can get around with 15 ponies…….anyhow, my first wave was in the dark as the cloud cover and rain postponed first light……I did it on instinct, and actually did well……I was flying……the surf had picked up so there was the odd 5' set catching everyone…..I wore booties today as I was up on the reef a few times yesterday, and good thing I did, as I was on it again today……I had my board ripped out of my hands a few times………got washed around once…..it was all going on…..I got a few good ones, a few classic wipe-outs…..all in all after 11 waves and a couple hours I was done……it was looking good at low tide, only 6 out and most were land ferals……I shot photos, had a nap, and went back out around 4…..there were 5 boats, so it was busy, as well as the land ferals who are for the most part all pests……I had to put the body-boarder on notice……anyhow I surfed for 3 hours, ended up with 13 waves for a total of 24 for the day…..the little fella moses must have surfed for 8 hours……he had like 50 barrels and 100 waves……wish I was doing that at 15……after a fresh rain water shower it was tea and dinner time……another fine feral meal at the husein home-stay……I am still 3 weeks away from cake every night at togat……I miss my togat family…….hope they are managing to get a few waves up there as the winds haven't turned trades yet…..once that happens it's mentawai-magic-time………..…..today's photo is of the red hot chili peppers rocking the house in the philippines in february 2014……the kids got a treat this night, at the rock-show………below…..………the sign-series continues……with a street sign in padang, sumatra…..….below…………padang fishing boats……cheap, cheap, cheap…….below…………the tsunami tower…….a safe spot….just in case…..….and finally Soff, serenading Beaker while the sun was setting in the west……..