<----卐LEGEND卐---->

....click play above for the song of the day.....

(ps36)

.....had a fun paddle today.....I was out first......going it alone, as usual.......did the same yesterday arvo as well.....I see and hear ryan hooting me on a wave......I rode that one far so jim and a bogie paddled out past me.....the mayor chattin away like he does....I can see from a distance, it's no one I recognize.....great I leave for a couple weeks and our spot is over-run with new faces(at least that i what my head was telling me)......as I approach, jim says this is chris, he pushes me, and we surf together, blah blah blah.....he paddles over shakes my hand and says "hi I am tom"......it's tom carroll.....legend......he surfed with us all morning.....Tom asked about line up spots, hooted me on a few bombs I caught......it was a good session as well....5'-6', glassy, slabbin, tide got high, but the swell was big enough that it just kept breaking.....now I've met tom before a few times......back in the 80's in hawaii, and at the super secret society I attend as well.......it was nice watching him surf our spot.......I got one out the back that I pulled in to, and got clam-shelled, Tom got the one behind and did the same thing......we both got whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked a proper secrets beating.....the rock came into play for me.....then I got whacked and washed sideways off into temples, so I went in(tom squeaked out as he was not as far in as I was), so I walked back to the point and gave it another go....now the tide was getting high......so getting out through the white-water was next to impossible but I gave it a go anyway......I got f-ing whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, and whacked, all the way through temples and I squeaked out between the end of temples and the outside peak.....I got so many on the head(although with the higher tide it's not as scary or dangerous as the low tide)......I was going to surf the outside peak, saw only 2 guys, my 6'5" was a bit short for that, so I paddled all the way back up the top.....as I was paddling back I saw some death barrels at temples.....long fast, and heavy......I am glad I did paddle back up, I sat on the slab, and got some of my best waves of the morning......after another hour, I paddled down to temples, I got one.....it was a bit tamer with the tide....Tom was down there and I saw him drop into one late, and didn't see him again.....then I got a wide one and went in.....who knows what the afternoon will bring.........todays photo is of a window in pattaya........below................post swell meeting dinner at Kats........below..............my friend Shelley sent me this pic, letting me know that she is pregnant and the chris brick designed top/dress/thingy still is around(vintage teenage millionaire) and fits.........below............1/2 way there........and finally.......

mr39911's picture

What a great experience. 

What a great experience.