<----卐BEATINGS卐---->

.....click play above for the song of the day.....about another kind of beating

.....been paying my dues.....also, I've been in a couple heavy situations in the past few days....on my first day back in the water, big jim(jim), the jap(hiro), fish & chips rider(joel) an myself were on it early.....I could only get 1 at our spot(tide was too high), before I paddled down to temples(joel was smart and went straight there).....managed to get 10 waves total for the morning, including an in-and-out barrel, a couple close-out barrels, and some fun.....4' waves.....so I had a nap and went back for more.....the swell had picked up......I went it alone....got smashed on the way out.....only got 3 waves, then I got caught, board hit me in the head, I couldn't get in, stuck in the impact zone, getting sucked to temples and a heavy heavy beating(I couldn't have taken much more) so I finally laid on my board aimed for shore and let 10 feet of white-water hit me, it immediately flipped me, I grabbed my fins(could have lost fingers) held on for my life, and finally made progress to the beach......a few more on the head and I got to shore, finished, done, out of gas.....Big Jim and Ryan were on their way out(good luck was my thought).......then Johnny and and Tommy the camera man(I knew he would have a difficult time lining one up, with his 70mm-200mm lens.....there was a lot of water moving....man I got a proper secrets beating......next morning.....pumping again, but good shape a bit morning sick, but it come good, 3 hours of fun.....13 waves, I was out first, then I see ryan, then big jim and tom carroll paddled up together......I got a few proper, proper beatings, as well as 13 waves, it was 5'-6' still.......home for a nap, then another go, and I went it alone once again.....it was another memorable session, it was still 5'-6', glassy, and fun....I managed to get 10, before I called it.....I got a few barrels, plenty beatings....heading out for day 3 and surf #5.......back on top....it was fun again.....surf 5 in 3 days.....brought the potato-chip(my thin short board)......I got 16 waves, jim, joel, hiro....the usual suspects.....we all had fun.....some drops, beatings, slabs.......day off today as I could not get out of bed at 4am today, plus it's back up and bigger through the middle of next week........todays photo is from 1977 at pipeline.....I nabbed it off a friends(Bruce Hansel) facebook page as well as the below caption----> Doug " Roach" Brown @ The Banzai Pipeline ! The First Day in 77 that I put my Board down and Did not want to Paddle Out ! Brian Bulkley came down and Heckled me until I had to save Face and DO IT ! Thanks Brian ! <-----........below..............tuk tuk parking only.........below..........backyard post-shave pic.......below.........can you tell it's the 80's??? pre-RHCP show the bottom 2 have passed-on and the rest of us are just old.......and finally.......some real art from an artist......