<----卐SWELL卐---->

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.....click play above for the song of the day..... "in my life"

....there has been plenty swell.....I've been riding a 7'4" the past 5 days, and needed every inch of it on more then a few times.....I broke the said 7'4" this morning......a moment of silence......it was an old favorite......I've had so many great waves on it.....Robert has made me some great boards over the years.....this being one of them......I've had great barrels on in in the last 5 days....I like barrels......we had a good session today, all were happy.....many great wipe-outs myself, Hiro, Dr John, were all getting some proper beatings.....todays photo is of Johnny Dee, from yesterday, I got out of the water at about 930, and he went in at 10am and surfed till 2pm.......it was not lining up like his did.....and speaking of Johnny Dee, while I was in the jungle, he was in Jakarta on the indo "Dating Game"--------> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7VMSN2oGdo&feature=c4-overview-vl&list=PLXB6iCPOqUeaGSanJJVcMfArb8Gjq_w6K

.......below is..................on one of my solo adventures through the jungle I saw this lady going, I tried to keep up with her, she was gone from sight in 30 seconds......below...............a Sumatran sunset........below...........floater.....actually lovin my M-16........and finally.....morning bliss in the Telos.....