<----卐PROPER-HT'S卐---->

strict warning: Only variables should be passed by reference in /var/www/drupal6/sites/all/modules/captcha/captcha.inc on line 61.

.....click play above for the song of the day....."lonesome river"

....today was a day......it was on again, here at HT's......some of the boys went to lances early yesterday(they were going to go again, I was going to join them) and scored some big waves......since the wind was light, and north we hoped it would change like yesterday so we stayed right where we were......after a few donuts, and some waiting a bit of reading, I went out...........it was still big/heavy, just not as heavy as yesterday evening....I rode the 7'2" again......I could not do anything right....I kept pulling into back-hand barrels, and getting pulled up the face and going up-side-down.....it was tragic....on my 3rd wave, it happened again, I got rolled in the barrel, then the white-water rag-doll effect and then my board hit me in the mouth, hard.....it put my tooth through my lip......I asked a few of the boys how bad it was(it was bleeding a lot), 3 different people said it was fine and no stitches required, so I kept surfing for the next 2 hours, a big storm hit, and the crowd went back to the boats and it was just ferals, as the storm passed it got clean and glassy and good.....then I got a bomb, it was steep, and I almost f-ed up the drop by laying-back into the face, but I managed to hold it together, bottom turn, under the lip, and into the barrel, I grabbed my rail, held the line and then came out of the barrel.......FINALLY!!!!!........I went in on that one as it was a good one......I saw the boys as I come up the beach and they saw the wave/barrel I just got......then I went for a rest......and it was still good, so I went out again..............this time it was crowded......a bunch of tattooed aussies off the nusa dewata boat that were pricks.....going every wave, back paddling, not waiting, it was fucked(these guys were all watching from the boat, yesterday afternoon when it was big, now they thought they were the shit)......a few of the local boys came out, and started burning these guys which made me happy.......I managed to get 6 or so before it happened.....I was in the barrel and one of these kooks dropped in on me......I freaked out yelled at him, called him a tattooed queer, and all kinds of mother f-ers......then I went in, so I did not grab him by the throat, and really get a situation started.....I was done, anyway, plenty of surfing in the past few days.......plus I had to pull the fins out of the boards, pack and be ready for tomorrows 6:30am boat trip with mamma to sioban......all good, now I know about big HT's.....todays photo......is of Darren one of the Kingfisher guests charging with his helmet cam rolling.......below...............some scratches and scrapes from yesterday am............below....................the Katiet donut lady, when she shows up us boys are happy.......below.............Katiet school girl happy to be done with her studies for the day......and finally the un-ridden wave of the day at the cobra...........