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.....click play above for the song of the day....."troubled"....I listened to this before I went out for afternoon bomb squad duty......

......good day here in Katiet today....waves pumping, wind cooperating, some good waves today here......and heavy.....the morning started out with no coffee, just grab the 6'8"(should have brought the 7'2") and go.....my first wave, I was late, and did the "in the lip" take-off, then launched, rag-dolled, under water cart-wheels, although I did not hit the reef, but the next wave of the 4 wave set, got me and I hit the bottom.......I went all the way in and around, did the city circle and back out for more......then I got caught......back around again......I had not even caught a wave and I was bleeding, and I had hit the reef 3 times.....I am like come on already.....then I started getting a few......not the out the back bombs, but some good ones....I got 8 waves and came in, then I got the water housing put together, and went for a swim...............it  was heavy, the current, the big waves and I got caught immediately.......it was heavy.....by the time I got out in the line-up, everyone had come in but Ben....,,,.......my favorite subject to shoot....it was so heavy/scary swimming in giant HT's......the current, and the sets kept me caught inside and swimming for my life, under some big heavy waves......the first wave of a set would break 20 feet in front of me, and the next 3 or 4 would wash me, hold me down.....I was spooked...I would look for valleys, nooks, and crannies to get into to try and dodge the approaching white water......by the 3rd or 4th wave of a set, it was all white(white-out, like in the snow) and seeing was next to impossible......I did manage to get a few shots of Ben before he went in, then I did the same...............from the picture above, you can see that Ben has it so wired he does this shit with his eyes closed......then there was no one out......as the north wind was kicking up I joined the americans on their boat trip to Bintangs......right as we were leaving the wind switched to west(perfect for HT's) and we saw some grinding barrels......we continued on our journey and got some waves at Bintangs...........I shot for an hour and surfed for an hour, I got some good pics and I got 8 waves.....the west wind was f-ing up the waves............then the wind would swing north, then west......so we headed back to HT's and it was firing...........I ate, rested, watched, took a couple pictures........then about 4pm I went for a paddle on my 7'2", good ol "Cosmo The Great"......what a session.....it was big/scary/fun......I saw a few bombs......there were only 4 of us out....I saw frenchie on a boogie board get a reform, he did and air-drop into the double up, as I was going over the back(I guess he panicked, and bailed, then he got slaughtered).....then there were 3.......I was too spooked to catch the reforms at the office as most were not quite makeable.....then I saw a guy get one at the reform, it let him in before the double up(like a ramp), he bottom turned and set it up(as I was going over the back) there was screaming from the boat, as he got spit out into the channel.......then a guy came off the boat, and the knee-boarder said, "follow me I'll show you how", they went out to the reform, next one the knee-boarder went it, the white water flipped him forward, and I did not see him again until the next day......every wave that someone including myself were getting, there were hoots, oh's, ah's from the boats.....they would yell when the saw sets coming......I got really lucky this session as it was big, I did not get caught, and I got 11 waves.....SICKKK......today's main photo......is Ben from this mornings session........below................is what not to do......and finally the unridden wave of the day.......