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.....click play above for the song of the day....... as I eat my morning cereal at 430am it's the "cereal song"

.......the seconds increased from 9 to 17 and it showed....I was under-gunned on my 5'10".....Bocky was on a 5'6", another guy on a 5'9", so it was not just me.....Big Jim on a 7'0", and of course "rob the cunt" was on an 8'6", and Barry on a 10'something.......I managed to get caught 3 times and hammered.....one set 5'+ snuck up on us, french fred bailed his board, as did jim, then me......jim came up with 2 boards......there were some waves.....plenty of power.......it was the first real waves, that I have ridden this year......I had a couple good hold-downs as well.....it was hard to be in the right spot, the current was running, but us guys on the little boards were doing alright......I took-off on 11 waves, but f-ed the drop on two of them so 9 will carry over.......it took awhile to get my 2nd wave, but finally I got a couple, 2 good falls, followed by 2 good beatings.......I paddled up to elevators which was over-run by 10 frenchies.....got my last 3 waves there......one was heavy.......the ankle held up ok although it has ice on it now, and it is up on a few pillows.....I am going to bring the 7'4" and go check the afternoon.....back to Nusa for more work then reward........todays photo......a lot of the times, things do not go as planned......below.............Digger looking into the crystal ball...............brekie coming right up..............Peace Be Upon You is the teenage millionaire shirt of the day.......