Tuesday May 4th

strict warning: Only variables should be passed by reference in /var/www/drupal6/sites/all/modules/captcha/captcha.inc on line 61.

Tuesday.....swell is suppose to be on so i go even earlier....paddle out with the moon light.......surfed for about 2 hours....it was building as I was out there....I had my new 6'8" so I was not having potato chip issues....I was at the track for more punishment, I am determined to get thi track wired, and that means putting in the hours.....so that is what I plan to do......second wave my board hits my ankle, good thing I was wearing booties......the corner was just starting, so I go out and wait....pick one off.....and ride it all the way through......at the end I cut back, drop back in, pull under the lip....hit some chop and get tossed..up-side down and backwards....followed by...up and over the falls I go......and WHACK......my left floater ribs, take the brunt of the blow.......left elbow hits too.....it knocked the wind out of me and I come up moaning......and who is right there and asks if I am OK????....the loudmouth frenchie......great.....now he knows I am a kook.......the ocean is a humbler.......surfing is like watching golfing on tv.....it looks so easy.....but try to hit the ball straight and make par......good luck.......surfing is the same.....the pictures I've been taking the boys make it look so easy......anyway it feels like I cracked some ribs.....f#@k injured again......paddle over to Bocky show him my side he says no stitches......well that's good news......but it really hurts......hurts to paddle.......I get another just to make sure everything was working.....then I paddled up to the peak and caught one in........got home and petey doctored up my wounds and cooked brekie and then we went out and got our visa paperwork together, photocopied, stamped, signed, photocopied again.......and all ready to turn in tomorrow......I sure hope the accept it as mine is getting down to the wire.....now I should have left for G-land last nite, or this am on the fast boat.......since my visa paperwork is not done together and ready.....I was not returning to G-land this trip.I am stubborn and I want to do the visa thing my self.....not through an agency.....I got back home at about 1130.....and laid down....that felt good.....Pete whipped us up some lunch......he is cooking indo style.....then I just chilled, as my ankle, ribs, elbow, all hurtin.....for certain.....then a bit of a nap......sore and painful.......watched a movie.......then over to see Big Jim....he is a bit under the weather........hung there did some posting and up dating......then home to bed......