<----卐COSMO卐---->

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click play above for the song of the day....tear by the boys in the photo of the day......I think the player is working again........

.....I waited for low tide......spoke to Sluggie & Mossip who had been watching it for hours, they said the Corner was the best, in their opinion......so I opted for the Corner instead out with the boys at our spot.....on the way out on the low, hand hit the reef, fins too(not much damage on either), as I ducked under some white water I threw my board over, as I came up it got me on the head next to my eye(it's black and blew as I write this)......then paddled straight out......first wave, a bit late, made the drop, top turn, bottom turn, pull up and under the lip into the barrel, came out, and continued down the wall, doing turns for the remainder of the wave until I kicked out past the big rock.....a 300 meter ride I would say.....first wave in over 10 days.....Cosmo is a great board......it was windy, choppy, not so great conditions, 6'+......after a few in the crowd at the corner, I paddled up, saw Morgan at the Outside Peak, and I kept going to the Bommey where Greg had been for an hour and a 1/2, and Johnny just showed.......I got 1 good one, a few close-outs, and a proper Bommey beating....upside down, backwards, looking up at the lip, and skipping.....followed by an under water thrashing, including a rinse & spin cycle, flipped end over end, pushed deep,  followed by climbing my leash during a good hold-down.....finally made it to the top, gave a celebratory yell and got the next one on the head......good times and good fun......glad to be home.......today's photo.......is of the Red Hot Chili Peppers......Anthony wearing one of his favorite Teenage Millionaire t-shirts.....below....shot 9069 and 9070...........

......of a 40 shot sequence.......glad I get the opportunity to do this........how lucky am I????