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....this is PART TWO of the <----卐YESTERDAY卐----> post, from 2 days ago, you can see part 1 here-----> http://hollywoodhoy.net/node/1393 ....now.......what makes an epic session???.....well it could be a few great waves.....sharing some waves with a friend or two, or three, surfing good waves alone........a friend or a photographer capturing an in and out barrel you might get, some nice drops, and a few turns......epic is in the eye of the beholder.......in this case, for me,  it was an afternoon at the outside corner on thursday the 19th of July 2012 to be exact......I did not have a plan.......I thought I was heading for the outside peak and the bommey......I opted for "Cosmo the Great" my newest Roberts surfboard, it is 7'2".......usually I go for the bigger board, to give me an edge on the crowd, and get me in early.......but today I was going for the maneuverability, and not the edge....also....it's a magic board, and fresh out of the ding repair after being buckled at the Peak, back in May....now I will not go into my first surf on Cosmo(but it was Epic as well, and better then the session I am describing here and you can see that post if you care to------> http://hollywoodhoy.net/node/1288 ).....to catch you up quick in this story...PART TWO starts where, I just took the biggest set so far this afternoon right on my head......I saw it coming too, although...I didn't think is was going to break outside of where I was sitting.....have I ever mentioned that I am stupid????.....so I missed the first one, got the second on the head.......then I waited......no one was sitting anywhere near me.....they were all inside of me, and further down the reef........I see another set off in the distance, I do not want to f-this one up......I do not want to be out too far as the 7'2" doesn't paddle like an 8'0" or a 9'6", and for sure I do not want another one on the head......needless to say, I timed it right, I put my head down, paddled hard and caught my first solid wave of the day, I made the drop and the section(there were a few idiots, trying to get involved) then I pulled up under the lip, and into the barrel  had the speed up(I hear Lana giving my a yell from down the line as I come out of the barrel) then another bottom turn, back up top turn, and so on, down the reef and past the big rock......(the boys at DSP did not photograph this wave, hopefully Jeffery got it)George was on the one behind, so we paddled back up to the top again(that paddle back takes 15 minutes).......we both got a bagus from Lana as we paddled by(Lana was on a 6'1" potato chip, that he had won the contest the day before, that got him into the trials for the Padang Padang Cup....he is going to use it in the contest as well, so he was a bit under gunned)........so I went back to my line-up spot......again I was deeper and further out then everyone.....5 minutes or so later this one came right to me..............this was the first shot of a 50 shot sequence........49 photos followed this first shot above......and I was still riding(the photographer probably had a sore finger so he stopped)........so what makes an epic session???....one thing that helps is a couple of these...........some of these............only one of these..............some good turns, some big drops, a couple barrels............and the waves,  just kept coming to me.........I went up to the Outside Peak, as I didn't want the boys to get pissed that I was getting all the good ones.......I got a couple, got caught twice(that was no joke).......then up to the Bommey, where I got one off the shoulder and unbeknownst to me  there were 6 behind it, that smashed/pummeled/beat-me-down/rolled-me-around/and tested my lungs.......I almost gave up, trying to get back out....by the time I did, I was back to kiddies corner with my tail between my legs......I plucked another one......paddled back to the outside peak and got one in........some kids in the cave with quicksilver stickers on there boards(who I come to find out later, that I would get to know their dad on a more up-close and personal level) said "nice barrel".......when I was leaving people in the edge were trying to buy me beer, people shaking my had saying "well done".........all this and some good photos, and cosmo still in 1 piece, made it an epic session......I got some good ones.....in the arena.......some call it the proving ground........for a couple days I got some atta boys.........all I was doing, was showing up and representing the 1%'ers......not only did I do that, I showed up & won the heat for the Bukit Boys.........
 

bigjim1's picture

Sweet Sweet Sweet

You are loving life and the guy on the inside is in for a world of hurt ....... Thats surfing . keep up the good work mate ! The Bukit Boys 1%