<----卐OCCUPY卍SECRETS卐---->

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......well 'ol Secrets has been good/heavy/fun/hollow/dangerous/big/clean/violent....... as well as getting caught, I got smashed/pounded/barreled/big-drops/free-falls/a broken-board/some good ones/many missed sections/......classic Secrets......it's hard to regulate when the rest of the boys are friendly and talk to the strangers, and then they drop in on me so the undesirables think it's OK to burn the "cranky american"......so I have something to say to everyone of them, & piss-off anyone who ventures up Secrets way......I need some backing though, but I have no back-up......so I go it alone.....cranky-jenggot, goes out of his way to make peoples holidays memorable if they happen to have a surf at Secrets when I am in the water.....I get in their heads, it's physiological warfare, and it's on......I have had some really good waves lately.......some big heavy Secrets......I am going up to Secrets now, for a mid-day paddle.....I have skipped the dawn-patrol with the Big Fella the past two days........8pm......so today was no different.....the waves were pumping, the kooks were around.....it's so sad our "little piece of heaven" known as Secrets has been overrun.......I am pissed.....the rest of the boys do not seem to care.....I started by splashing some stranger, who looked at me funny......it was a 4'-5' and good......once the stringy haired french guy paddled up with his 3 friends I went ballistic......asked him why he brought his 3 friends up here, and flipped him off to make my point, so I started a new war......when he pulled back on a perfect bomb I really laid into him, calling him a french faggot, and a pussy, and on and on it went....fuck-um.....then I got a double barrel right in front of him, so I rubbed that in his face, I tried to run over his friend....it was all going on......I did manage to get a sick, deep, in and out, with no whiteness' but the camera boys......it looks good, I will get the sequence and post it someday.....3 days of 5' secrets, has me sor. tired, and happy.....not happy about the  one man "Occupy" movement, but happy about the secrets training I have been getting.......anyhow, todays photo is from yesterdays session at Secrets........thanks to DSP photo guys......they hook me up with proof......Big Jim, my witness, was at home while I was pulling into this one.......I thought the only witness was a partial witness, the brazillian, with the stupid long dreadlocks, on the "look-at-me" pink board,(who you can see in the upper right of the wave, punching through the back), he saw me do the turn....stall....and then pull-in portion of this wave......but the DSP boy got the whole thing.......I got pounded on this one......and the next two were really heavy......after a sever beating, I was back out for more.......the thing I like about this, is you can't see my head, but you can see Cosmos........