<----HAPPY卐EASTER---->

strict warning: Only variables should be passed by reference in /var/www/drupal6/sites/all/modules/captcha/captcha.inc on line 61.

....PART 3

......part 3 goes a little something like this.....HAPPY EASTER......now that is out of the way....I celebrated easter with a morning paddle, and it looked like this...............but back to <----GOOD卐FRIDAY卐PART卐3---->......as i was coming out of of the cave at Uluwatu after an afternoon dip......the surfers had their sunscreen on and awaiting the dropping tide for outside corner to do it's thing.....Morgan was coming down the stairs, we swapped our scary solo am session stories, he said his 8'3" felt to small out at the Bommey in the morning so he had his 9'0' under his arm.....I inquired about the 8'3", he said it was in the warung, but needed fins......just so happened I had a set of 3 "scarfini's" in my 6'8", in the said warung....so I put them in the Brewer, and I hit it......I got caught trying to sneak through the key-hole, and took the long away around.......I snapped up an inside wave. to get a feel for, and to have a go on a board I had never ridden(it's a brand new only ridden this am, by Morgan.....Lyle special 8'3" red Brewer).......my first wave pictured below.................the Brewer went good, as you would expect a Brewer to go.....then I paddled up into the pack of usual suspects, Jake, Cacho, Morgan, Rodrigo, Aquaman, Chook, Jim Banks, and assorted others, some guys were out on boards under 7'(they were really struggling to get to where the sets were breaking, to hold position, etc....they were not even in my equation.....)the current was fierce......I have never felt it pull so much through the corner......since I spent the last few months paddling at Nusa, I knew exactly what to do.....paddle, paddle, and paddle.......I was burnt by this time as I have been paddling 2 sessions a day for 5 days +, and at least 1, 2-4 hour sessions at Nusa for the 10 days before that......I was almost paddled-oul.....almost.......I was too tired to paddle up and deal with 8'-12' Bommey( I do regret not paddling up to the Bommey for just one to go in on, as I got burned on my last wave by Jim Banks, and was too tired to paddle all the way around for 1 last good one).....anyway, I kept my old tired ass at "kiddies corner" aka "outside corner"......it's called kiddies corner as that is where me and the other children were playing.....the boys were playing up at the Bommey, where the consequences significantly increase.......by consequences I mean the drops, the waves, getting caught, and all the rest of it is 5-10 times heavier........like I said it was paddle paddle paddle, then swing around and go.......the faces were lumpy & bumpy, and big.......I would say it was less the average corner conditions.........I got 6 or 8 waves in the 2 1/2 hours I was out......today's main or "happy easter" shot, you can really see the bump & lump in the face.....the wind was blowing up the face as well........there was an erie green color to the water as you can see below.................the 2nd wave I got I did not get around the section, and I got smashed.......when i opened my eyes to find the top, it was black, I thought my rash-guard hoodie had been pulled over my head, but it was just really murky and dirty.......below..............is another one I got, the Brewer turned well, made sections, held to the face on the drops, I am glad I got to ride it......
 

bigjim1's picture

Nice wave Nice Shot .

Your a good man ! Always carrying the flag for the Bukit Boys ..... Its nice two rest for a few days .... Rest is Gym workouts and paying bills and doing house work and acting out ...... Then need to go surfing,to have a rest from life ... Not much swell for a few weeks ...... But things can change and always a 3 foot wave in Bali ..... The Bukit Boys are sooooooo lucky .