<----GOOD卐FRIDAY---->

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Part 2

........it's 1:30 am on the day before Easter....I am wide awake.....I have no idea why, as I have paddled more in 5 days then my friends in Cali do all year......"Good Friday" was a day to remember......a church day.....and no different here in Bali.....The Sacred Bleeding Heart Church Of The Outside Corner was in a celebratory mood.......the boys were all out there getting a few......Jake pictured as the main photo, and the one below............was casually picking off some great ones....he gave me a couple that he was in position for(thanks Jake, although he probably was enacting  the "second wave of the set" plot which got him one like the photo above.......he also did not swim in(as I have seen him do, many times when the Outside Corner is throwing like it does......from a broken board or leash, Jake usually gets to shore, grabs another board and charges back out).....Cacho, took that "title" today.......the picture below...........is Cacho in the process of breaking his second(borrowed) board of the session......he went in got a 3rd board and paddled back out.......as for me.....good friday was heavy......I started out at dawn, with a solo session out at the Bommey......I took out my 8'0".......just me.....Big Jim watched me paddle out, and it took an hour, he said for me to reach the Bommey......the tide was coming in and the current was pulling down the reef........as I was on the long paddle, I was looking into the Bommey which looked perfect......big, grinding, throwing.....heavy........trying to line it up, was not to bad, that was what I thought.......of course I was wrong.....I see the top of an approaching wave, and from a laying down position it looked 12' to me(also unbeknownst to me, Jake who was watching from the safety of Tim's house probably nursing a morning coffee, said it was 10' solid).....so 12', 10', 8', 6', .....I do not know......the next thing I do know, is I am scratching for my life to get the fuck out of where I was(which was in the path of of a giant bommey wall which was already breaking)......I  went diagonally for the horizon......I knew if I bailed and swam for the bottom, I would probably be OK, but my board, leash or both would be broken, and I would be in for a swim(and after 5 days in a row of 2 surfs a day I was f-ing fatigued as it was....).....so as I was paddling for my life away from this approaching beautiful monster(the lip was so thick, throwing out so far, the barrel was so big, and I was going as fast as I could to escape it's fury)........ I barely got about 3/4 of the way up the wave face and duck-dive/punched into the face wave trying to get through.......I started to get sucked back into it(meaning me and the 8'0" will soon be sucked backwards into the stomach of the beast, probably backwards over the falls, which is always worse then just over the falls)so I let the board go between my legs which saved me from being sucked over, and the board popped up, and the wind up the face took it up into the air(Big Jim told me this later)instead of pulling it into the wave.......I grabbed my board, caught my breath, and was determined to get one, after all this paddling.......and get one I did......the next set that came, I scratched into one.....finally.......big drop, long wall, a bunch of turns.......each time I got up to the top it was like dropping in again, a speed run......200 meters?....300 meters?, I do not know, but it was long.......(Jim thought I was coming in on that one), but after that I wanted another......I ended up getting 4, one smashed me pretty good, I was trying to get barreled, but f-ed something up.....anyhow I got in the cave ok, had a chat with Big Jim.....as we were leaving Morgan showed up with the 8'3" brand spankin new brewer for his late am paddle......breakfast time, and some internet for me.........this Blog is already too long so Part 3 tomorrow....