<----OFF卐SHORE---->

 


.......today's photo shows how the winds of change have been blowin, hard, & off-shore.....reminded me of Hawaii trade-winds......the wave pictured here is solid 8'.....I shot this picture about 6:30pm from the Temple......it was 6'-10' in the morning and heavy.....I brought my 9'6" but didn't use it, although I should have as it would have helped to get into them as the wind was blowing so hard up the face the take-offs were blind.....I got a left and 3 rights at the main peak during the morning session.....I was out there alone as Hiro got washed in....then I got caught...a 6 wave 8'-10' size, beating.........it was a bit heavy so I went up the reef, back out the keyhole(which happened to give me an extra hard time today, I missed it and had to try again when first going out, but got right out on this go) to elevators......elevators was 6'-8'+ and I managed to get the wave count up, but the peaks were heaving and the 7'8" was to small for the big ones.......after that I went home got my camera, checked mushroom and b-stone(neither was too good) so I ended up at "spot x" for a 3 1/2 hour swim and 720 some odd water-shots later, I got out had a coffee and came and shot the shot featured here........long f-ing day.......

yorik's picture

Like this shot at lot, would

Like this shot at lot, would look fantastic in a frame.