<----5卐HOUR卐SURF---->

......today's surf was fun and interesting......I met Hiro before 5:30 at the Temple.....it looked 3' so we just took our time.....I grabbed the 5'10"(Larry kecil) and out we went....Elevators was closing out and dumping(too much tide and smaller swell, so I thought), as soon as we got out the key-hole and down to the peak, a 5' set rolls through......great under-gunned again,,,,,,,although I made the best of it and got a few, trying not to go too deep/too late although you have to be under the hook to get them after 45 minutes Carney joined us......I was being cautious, and it was a bit in consistent so when the paddle boarder came up(Carney yelled at him, then he said your beards grown a lot in a year.as he came by me)......and proceeds to go on the only wave I had a chance at.......normally I would have dropped in on him, but with the 5'10", the bad knee, I did not want to f-up the drop and land on him........he did it to himself as I heard Carney yell for joy.....ol mr cocks took off deep, got hammered, broke his paddleboard in 1/2, lost his paddle, and had a nice swim to deal with......I thought that asshole moved to Australia.......10 locals beat his ass on the beach at Tugu a few months back......he's a big cunt, and like to fight.......but his arrogant wave hogging caught up to hi when he burned the wrong Balo kid......a few waves after that I got caught after a wave and got sweot way down by chickens and as I paddled back another 5-6'er broke 50 meters in front of me so I turned around and went into the shallows for my long walk/paddle back to the key-hole and a go at Elevators.....me and my wing-man Hiro made a pact to finish off our session at elevators......wing-man was a no-show.......I could see the big fella walking across the reef, as I was slooowly making my way......I almost went in and got big larry the 7'8" but that would take so much energy.....as I got closer to the key-hole I see the Big Fella paddle into a 5'er, late drop, big wall, and he made the section and kicked out the back......so by the time I paddle through the key-hole the big fella was heading down to the main peak.......only rob the kike was out.......he ALWAYS rides a 8'6" - 9'0" board and never lets 1 go by that is why I think he is a jew.......everyone hates him, Carney punched him, split his lip and stitches were needed a year or two back, and a couple weeks back they were tangled up(literally) and rob(the kiwi/american as he spends a bit of time in the san diego area)started shooting off his mouth(not recognizing Carney's shaved head)about how he has been living here 17 years(which  is not true)........I did not hear the "rest of the story" but I hope he got punched again......at elevators this day he was getting 6 waves to my 1.....the day before he was about 3 to 1 as I was on my 7'8"(Larry basar)......so when he swung around for a 6' "a-frame" and went left I just paddled in , and didn't even look back and forced him to get a beating, not only by that one, but the next 3 as well......oh well......he gave me a sarcastic "good morning" as he paddled by......well fuck him, no wonder he gets punched, and has a well earned position on the "goon squad" t-shirt.......later he said I can not believe how good it is and why no one has come out(people kept paddling through the key-hole and hangin a left down to the peak)......I informed him that surfing with him was like surfing with a crowd of 5 or 6 people.......he said "what" with an intimidating tone.....so I repeated what I had just said slower and louder so my words were clear........he paddled off 10 or so minutes later.....so long.......enjoy New Zealand.......Mossip was out next and whitenessed me paddle into a 6'er, make the drop, try to do a bottom turn, and slip-out and do a reverse stink-bug.......what a great long surf.......it was really good......had a sit-down at Tim's with the japs......met mr Nobu Fuko, my neighbor, long time bali resident and great photographer......we will travel together this year and have fun switching surfing/water-shots, so we will both have great shots......then I went for a massage and my head was full of water.....had to keep blowing my nose......it was a hard night too, sleeping with full sinuses and my dodgee knee........today's photo is dawn check of Nusa from the temple.....looks small, but it was 5'-6', and has been for 3 days now.....looking east, sunrise, rainy-season.......