Surfing and more surfing 13 April 2010 (This is a 2009 photo )

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Bali is one of the most consistent waves in the world..... But getting to the line up is never easy...... 20 minutes of driving...... Put on the sun screen,rash vest, surf hat, booties...  Waxes the board... Between 100 to 550 steps .......... A half mile walk and now we have made it..... to the waters edge ......... A big paddle to the line up........... I finely made it........... out the back.....now meet..... with a  rip from hell.... two hours of non stop paddling......... Would not have it any other way....... There is no better feeling then off shore winds and clean Indo lines..... The swell 6+ and running down the reef...... The feeling of being a little scared..... Paddling into your first bomb....... dropping into it..... You make it..... it stand up like a big wall.... You go high on the wave...... looking for speed...... You start to relax ...... turning on the wall ...... Trying to slow and find that barrel....100 to 200 meters you flick off....... Your mind tells you....... a great wave...... you start to hope you can paddle back out....... with out getting caught inside...... You do it again and again and wave after wave....... until you can not paddle no more ........ Then the longest wait of your life........ Is that last wave back to shore.......  Then you go and check the photos....... find out your head..... has been  lying to you.......  That four second barrel was only a head dip...... That 8+ wave was only 4 foot plus........ All them big hit of the lips... one,two, three ..... were only big turns of the top...... Back in the Warong with your friend....... Drinking water or soda........Eating a Chocolate bang bang...... We are all tried and can only smile and wait for the next big swell...... take care