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......low-tide, early am, 2.5 meter south swell......go to Secrets......me and the 2 big-fellas got into the current, morning sickness and all the rest of it and had some fun.....in spite of the conditions and such.....we traded waves all morning......it's a great way to start the day and the swell forecast looks bleek for the next week, have to paddle now, while we can.....had a few good hold downs, a couple of proper beatings and a few fun ones......almost a 4 hour paddle......I have been putting in the hours.....I am tired and sore......today's photo is from Desert Point.....quiet time......