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.....sittin around the house having a laugh with the boys.....it's another day in paradise.....well there was another day of waves today.....Gino and I started at dawn at Secrets.....I started out with one from the peak, it walled up and straight into a barrel.......got pinched on the way out.....then while I was down the end I jumped on one of the slabs....that was a high speed fun one as well, with a turn and flying out the back.......I could tell it was going to be one of those days......Gino swung around on one of the slabs......came up touching his head and looking at his hand......I didn't see any blood......what I didn't know was the hole in his head was on the opposite side.....once I paddled up to him and his white rashie was stained, I knew it was more than a whack......I had a quick peek and said you probably need 5 stitches.....he was going to go sort it and told my not to worry and keep surfing, but he doesn't know where the hospital is, he will need cash and if he doesn't have enough the money exchange does not open for 3 or 4 hours......too many variables, plus people have done the same for me.......so in we went, and just the sight of Gino, put a few people off Secrets....good......we got on the bikes and off to my house, for an ATM card and off to the ATM, then to Kashi Ibu to register, I peeked in the emergency room section and saw Dr. Eka, cutest doctor in Jimbaran with her crew, and it looked like we were were first in line......once Gino got the paperwork out of the way, it was onto Dr Eka's table she looked and said it looks like 5 stitches, and the shaved the area and stitched him up......as he was waiting for his medicine and paperwork, I high-tailed it back up to Secrets before the tide got too high.....I kept riding the 6'6" epoxy that I have buckled and snapped twice.......man it was still good up there.......I just kept paddling deep, and outside and another bomb would come, and so it was wave after wave....Big Jim and Sluggie wer up there sitting on the Slab, catching corners, heavy drops, and barrels......the big fella recons I got one of the best waves he has seen me get......I was flying, it was standing-up, I was in the pocket, in the barrel, in the pocket and an in and out down through the Slab......I stayed out for 4 hours again, worked my way through Temples, and the Main Peak, and came in......long day at the office......today's photo's are of Gino and our morning activities.......