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....the early birds scored today.....5' Secrets and fun.....a little inconsistent, but really fun....Gino, Big Jim, myself, another guy was out, his buddy had cut his arm going out.......then the other guy went in after 30 minutes or so and it was just us.....the way we like it.....we were all getting waves, some barrels, big drops.......by the time we got to Temples it was throwing......had one of my worst wipe-outs in awhile.....a cartwheel in the barrel, then rag-dolled, thumped, thrashed, didn't hit bottom though......all in all great 4 hour surf......Mr Digger comes in an hour........and we scooped up Digger knocked the travel hours off him by heading straight to Ulu's on the big bikes at top speed....then a paddle out to Secrets 4'-5' and fun....Digger managed to catch a couple, straight off the plane, sitting wide and shoulder-hopping the freight-train end section......I was trying to get Gino over to the peak, but he has got so many big ones on the head sitting near me, he is over it I think, and the one wave he did get he got whacked on the arm by his board and he was milking that injury through the next day.......a bit of dinner with the boys and yet another day of 2 surfs, and good times on the Bukit.......today's photo is of Mr Glenn hand in the face, in the beginning of cranking a backside cut-back.....he is in the mine today, but always has his next trip to the Bukit.....booked......

doctor john's picture

nice board...  

nice board...