<----TORTURE---->

 


.....days like the ones pictured here are torture.....when you are stuck on land.....I remember this day.....I was on land due to a leg infection.....a preventable leg infection......I wanted to duct-tape it and charge, but doctor Big Jim the local GP dissuaded me......so I took pictures like the one here, of Secrets at 5' solid with bigger sets......Torture.......big jim, nurse paul, joel, were on it, and scoring although they'll be caught by the third one for sure, a small price to pay.......today's surf was small 2'-3', I couldn't get into a rhythm.....Gino won the heat at Temples.......  

yorik's picture

Memories

That was a good session still stuck in my mind, prob coz of the shots and seeing u at the top of the light house!!!