hoy's blog

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Baptism By Fire....Sunday 14th 2010

...time warp...deep sleep for an hour, up to pee....back down....for most of the night it went this way...a heavy rain storm, is always nice for background music.......up before the 415am alarm...the jet lag is on...have a bowl of oatmeal, a coffee and the scramble to put the surf-rack mount back on my bike(that was removed for some unknown reason as I parked my motor-bike on my porch for my trip to LA...anyhow...getting the surf stuff together after a period of time away from the  daily routine, means concentration to the details, as if the leash is forgotten, it sure complicates matters, need my rashgard(where did I leave that and the bordies) wax, water...board...ipod...helmet...I was walking around in circles getting it all together...the 20 minute ride in the dark...the crescent moon rising as the day was breaking...hillbilly music...playing...I had to yell out loud, to express the feeling of being home...Indonesia....on my way to Nusa Dua...i get there as it was just getting light...a few of the boys were there calling it 4'...oops only brought the 6'1" twin fin....this ought to be baptism by fire situation(I am under-gunned, haven't paddled since I was here 5 weeks ago)although I manage somehow...as I have been in situations similar to this...a lot over my 44 years on the planet...anyhow the water was warm, and the surf was on, long waits, and 10 wave sets....so lots of paddling....a bunch on the head...a few good waves....back to nature....plugged in....and lovin it....put the camera around my neck on my ride to town....to Sean's engagement party....in my neighborhood alone there were 3 ogoh ogoh's so I stopped and shot pictures of everyone that I saw on my way off the bukit...there is an electricity in the air....bali is alive, the Hindu's are dressed in white, the melasti ceremony of cleansing before Nyepi(the Hindu or Balinese New Year...I am not sure which...or both...is on the 16th).......

Back To Nature......Saturday March 13th 2010

...Bali at last and the plane's touching down......the stewardess is handing the hot towels around, from the terminal gate to Paul's limousine, it's a 20 minute ride to Balangan...to home...Paul shows up with "Sweet D" at the airport....now Diana and I have some history, we've never been in Bali at the same time, but we have been a lot of places together, from 1980-2010 so far, and hopefully many more experiences, and fun together....she says she'll be back here in June for our 10th annual NA Convention, and she is one of the only people I believe when they say they will be here...with D, Paulie, and me on our way to my home-group...the 5pm "Swell" meeting on Saturdays, I know we'll have a big turnout today......there were 7 of us total, a record turn-out in my experience for the bukit...since I've been going....

Gang Of Four- Friday March 12

...at the LAX onward and upward.......wow what a trip....it was hard......to say the least.....in all my affairs....I am so tired right now that I will for sure sleep a bit.......can't wait to surf again, be nice to be home......all of it.....I was reunited with the "Gang Of Four" this trip, 4 of us were at Dad's memorial(the 4th was in New Zealand on a rock tour........I did see him before he left though)there is a fifth musketeer as well, not pictured here, he was probably 10 yards behind us in the Principals office, where we or at least me was coming from....I am not sure how old we were here, in this picture, old enough to be into mischief, but still young.......before we got into the drugs, what a time it was, this was for sure the 70's, and the "Gang Of Four" was just hitting stride.........I will miss the family, friends, and such......no more cold........back to nature soon enough....hard to believe that a plane stays in the air 15 hours....I've been on the current one for 13+ hours and it's the duty free announcement in chinese portion of this trip....it's funny, sitting on this plane...next stop the republic of china...and thinking about the "Gang Of Four"....when you're kids in school, the common bond is fun, and with us it was as much fun as possible...I returned to that philosophy about a year ago, and it still feels the same "fun"......I hope it never ends......saw a lot of old pictures of me, my family, my friends this trip.....at the memorial about 10 of my friends were there, 4 I've known 40 years + a few others over 30, and some from the past few years......I love my friends......if there is an internet connection in the Taipei airport I will up-load the "Gang Of Four" picture....

LaSt SuNrIsE oVeR cHaVeZ rAvInE tHuRsDaY mArCh 11th

...the last sunrise over Chavez Ravine......last day of cold.......lots of running around today.......late flight out.......it's been a really emotional trip.......draining really.......in so many areas........Los Angeles is a tuff town...hard to have a quality of life here.....so many people I know are struggling with the life stuff, and the economy sure isn't helping........LA ain't all surf & sun........be back to nature soon......away from the hype, the BS, the family & friends, all of it.......it's a nice place to visit, but I sure wouldn't want to live here......

nAp TiMe-->WeDnEsDaY mArCh 10th

...sunrise over Chavez Ravine.......beautiful.......the lights from dodger stadium line the hill tops in the distance......LA has it's moments.....it's dark-side, and all the rest of it........tomorrow it's a plane ride for 15 hours to Taipei....away from friends and family, but closer to home.......it is 45 degrees outside, way to f-ing cold for me......going where the climate suits my clothes......shorts, flip flops, and a t-shirt........it's so nice not to have 15 employees, 30 sales reps, and a bunch of overwhelming none-sense running around in my head.........employees are interesting, you pay them good(they think they are being exploited)and they work just enough.........to not get fired.......glad i am out of that......not to mention all the rest of it with the taxes, the hoops(you can not do anything in America without a "fee", "license", or a "permit" - from the cradle to the grave...and beyond)it's all structured just so, you can't get ahead........just treading water, sometimes weekends off, or 2 weeks vacation a year, paid if you are lucky, and the time off is spent catching up on rest from the grind........and the rest of the world thinks we have it good........sometimes a nap can do the trick.........forget the woe's and worries......and all the rest of it....

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